By THÉRÈSE MARGOLIS     Call it haute cuisine mexicaine au désinvolte or Abuelita’s home-style cooking with a contemporary artisan twist, but regardless of how you define the gastronomy at the new Aida’s Café, it is a happy marriage between comfort food and fine dining. The latest addition to Mexico’s Grupo Hunan restaurant group (think Hunan Nobu, Guadiana, Nueve Nueve, Penny Lane,